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Italy has started exporting a delicacy prized abroad, reviled at home
- Fishermen who once incinerated the invasive Atlantic blue crabs have pivoted to selling them — packing and exporting catches (much of the meat is processed in Sri Lanka) — and the Polesine cooperative now forecasts about €20 million in revenue this year.
- The crab boom has devastated prized Manila clam and mussel beds, collapsing local incomes; scientists blame warmer, saltier waters from climate change and drought for the sudden population surge.
- A few chefs and restaurants are embracing the crab with all-crab menus and vacuum‑packed products to win over diners, while unconventional control efforts (like releasing baby octopuses) and cultural resistance continue.
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